♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Nik makes me lemon-braised chicken, Hannah talks all about dish soap, Dan explains the science behind evaporative cooling, and Dan makes Bridget Fattet hummus.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

"America's Test Kitchen" is brought to you by the following.

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♪♪ -When people look up recipes on the "America's Test Kitchen" app or website, there are three descriptors that are always among the most popular.

You have skillet meals, chicken, and lemon.

And today, Nik is here to show us a recipe that incorporates all three.

-Today I'm going to show you how to prepare one-pan chicken Mediterranean dish that's layered with citrus at every stage.

And you know the best part?

-What?

-It's also got one of my favorite ingredients -- preserved lemons.

-Preserved lemons.

-Mm-hmm.

Preserved lemons, they're prepared by fermenting the lemons.

So they've got this extra funky, savory depth to it -- -Mm-hmm.

-...and it intensifies everything to lemon peak.

-Yeah.

And you can buy preserved lemons, or you can find a recipe to make them on your own on our website.

-So I'm going to start with the preserved lemons.

And I'm going to chop about 2 tablespoons.

So I'm just scooping this off.

It's so soft.

It comes off easily.

And you can just slide your knife just like that.

-Mm-hmm.

-Once I have this flesh out of the way, I'm just going to chop up the peel.

And we're going to use that to prepare dressing.

-Okay.

So that looks like about one lemon's worth.

-Yeah.

And I'm transferring this 2 tablespoons of preserved lemon peel into this bowl.

Now to this, to make the dressing, I'm going to add 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

-Mm-hmm.

-I'm going to add 1 teaspoon of lemon zest.

-So fresh lemon and preserved lemon.

-Mm-hmm.

And then 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of dried oregano.

-Oh, that's a lot of oregano.

-Well, the thing about using oregano and lemons together, you see this pairing often in Mediterranean cooking.

-Mm-hmm.

-And that's because lemons and oregano share a lot of those same chemicals, which then helps intensify those lemony flavors in a dish.

-That is very cool.

-Now the dressing's all done.

-Okay.

-I'm going to keep it to the side.

Now for the next part of this dish.

I am going to prepare the marinade.

-Okay.

-It's quite similar to the dressing.

I'm going to start with 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

-Mm-hmm.

-1 teaspoon of lemon zest.

2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice.

-More lemon juice.

-Mm-hmm.

I'm going to add 2 minced garlic cloves.

I'm now going to add 1 1/2 teaspoons of table salt.

-Okay.

Table salt, not kosher.

If you're using kosher, you should double the amount.

-Next, we're going to add 1 teaspoon of dried oregano, 1 teaspoon of smoked paprika.

-Oh, see, now you upped the ante.

You want those smoky phenolic flavors from the paprika in here, which just makes it so much better.

-Mmm.

-I'm adding 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper.

And finally, 1/2 teaspoon of ground turmeric.

-Okay.

-So turmeric has this pigment called curcumin, which gives food a yellow color, and once it goes into the fat, it's going to permeate through the chicken thighs.

Now for the next part of this dish, I'm going to pat 8 5 to 7-ounce chicken thighs with the skin on and the bone inside -- -Mmm.

-...and I'm going to put them into the marinade.

-This is the best cut of chicken.

It has the most flavor because you have the skin and the bone.

And quite frankly, it's often the least expensive in the case.

-Oh, yeah.

It's a win-win.

-Yep.

-Now I'm just going to put them in here and then fold them to coat it really well.

-Now, how long do you really need to marinate this chicken for?

-Yeah, so with this recipe, you can make the marinade, fold the chicken in, leave it in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

But what we found during testing is that you don't have to.

-Really?

-You just fold it in here and you cook it straight on, and you'll still get that flavor.

-Wow.

-And we are now ready to start cooking things.

So I'm starting with a 12-inch nonstick skillet, but it's cold.

-Okay.

-And I'm going to put the chicken thighs in here, skin side down.

-Okay.

-I'm going to cook these for about nine minutes on this side.

And then I'm going to flip them over.

-Okay.

Now, what's the heat level on the skillet?

-It's at medium.

-Medium heat, nine minutes for the first side.

Alright.

-Do you smell that?

-It smells delicious.

You can smell a little bit of paprika, a little bit of the garlic.

-And the lemon.

Don't forget the lemon.

Now, this chicken has been cooking for nine minutes.

The skin has turned nice and golden brown.

Look at that.

-Goodness.

-And I'm going to cook it on the other side for about six to eight minutes to get that side browned as well.

-Okay.

-I'm going to transfer it to my plate.

-I love that it has that turmeric sort of color to it.

-Even the oil's taken on a bit of that color.

-Oh, yeah.

-And I'm going to get all of this chicken out into the plate and keep it to the side.

Now I'm going to transfer all this fat to a bowl, and I'm only going to use 1 tablespoon of it to cook.

-Gotcha.

-Now I'm going to take 1 tablespoon of this chicken fat and pour it back into the skillet.

And I've got 2 thinly sliced shallots that I'm going to cook in here.

So the skillet's at about medium heat.

And I'm going to cook these shallots until they turn brown and fragrant, which takes about three to four minutes.

-Okay.

-And you can see that they're already taking on the color from the turmeric that's in the chicken fat and all those lovely flavors.

Now my shallots are completely browned beautifully.

I can smell them.

I'm going to transfer them into this large bowl.

And I'm going to wipe the skillet clean.

-Okay.

-Now in the skillet, I'm going to toast 1 1/2 cups of pearl couscous.

And we're doing this over medium heat for about three to four minutes just to get it slightly golden brown.

And you can start getting that nutty aroma from the couscous.

My couscous is nicely toasted.

It's fragrant.

I've got 1 3/4 cups of water.

I'm gonna add 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of ground turmeric again.

-Alright.

Reinforcing those flavors.

-And it gives a really nice color here, which ties in with the whole theme of this dish.

Now I'm going to bring this to a boil and then reduce it to a simmer.

Now to the couscous, I'm going to mix in 1 can of drained, rinsed chickpeas.

I'm using 1 can of drained, rinsed artichoke hearts that have been quartered.

-Ooh, yum.

-I'm going to mix the artichokes and the chickpeas into the couscous.

And so both the chickpeas and the artichokes here, they play with the softer flavors in here and a lot of texture contrast, which is something we want from this dish.

-Yeah.

I love the idea of lemon and artichoke together.

-And now I'm going to return the chicken thighs back to the pan.

We're going to cook the chicken with the couscous and let those flavors drip straight into the couscous.

-Mmm.

-And I'm placing them skin side top, and any liquid that came off from the chicken, I'm returning that back in here.

-All back to the skillet.

-Yeah.

And I'm going to cover this with a lid, and I'm going to let this cook covered for 15 to 20 minutes, until the chicken thighs reach 175 degrees... -Mm-hmm.

-...and all that liquid that's inside is absorbed and evaporated.

-Okay.

-The chicken's cooked.

It's been about 15 to 20 minutes, and I'm going to transfer the chicken thighs to my serving platter.

-Do you want me to hold it for you?

-Oh.

Thank you.

-Those are beautiful.

-The color, the paprika.

-Yes.

[ Sniffs ] They smell heavenly.

[ Sniffs ] Mmm.

There you go.

Oh, wow.

-Now I'm going to transfer the couscous from here with the artichokes and chickpeas into this bowl.

-Okay.

-With the shallots that I prepared earlier.

And so I want a little bit of that shallot-y texture in here.

-Gotcha.

-Uh, this is just so nice.

-Yeah.

-And now into the couscous I'm going to fold in 2 cups of fresh baby arugula.

-Wow.

-It adds that nice peppery bite.

-Yeah.

-It's almost like an herb in here.

-Yeah, like a fresh kick.

And the color.

-I'm just going to fold this just to combine it evenly so you get a little bit with each bite.

And I'm going to transfer this to the platter with the chicken.

-Mmm.

It smells so good.

-A chicken for you, a chicken for me.

Some couscous with artichokes and some shallots right there for you.

-That looks so good.

-And this is my favorite part -- the dressing that we made in the first step.

-Yep.

With all those preserved lemons.

-Yeah.

-Oh.

Thank you.

I'm going to take a little of the dressing and a little of the couscous.

I'm going right in.

-Go ahead.

-Mmm.

-Yeah?

-That dressing is so punchy.

I love it.

-And the preserved lemon, it hits you right at the end.

-Yes.

Alright.

I'm going for some chicken.

Mmm.

I can taste the marinade.

-Mm-hmm.

-You didn't marinate for very long, but you can really taste the garlic, smoked paprika.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then, of course, the lemon.

-And this is why I love this dish, because it's so practical.

You can make it ahead of time.

-Yep.

-But you can also just do it in the moment.

-Yeah.

-It's the best way to eat a lemon in all its forms.

-Such a lovely combination of flavors.

Nik, thank you for showing me how to make this.

-Absolutely.

It was a joy to cook it with you.

-If you want to try Nik's fabulous skillet chicken dish, start by tossing chicken thighs with a potent lemon herb marinade.

Brown the chicken and couscous separately, then finish cooking them together.

Finally, serve with an aromatic, preserved lemon vinaigrette.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a terrific recipe for lemon-braised chicken with pearl couscous, artichokes, and chickpeas.

I love the arugula.

It just adds that little bit of spice.

-Bite.

-Yeah.

♪♪ -To paraphrase Ben Franklin, there are only two certainties in life -- death and taxes.

Well, I bet Ben Franklin never had to wash a bunch of dishes, because I know there are dirty dishes by my sink all the time.

It's a certainty.

And I'm also certain that Hannah's here.

She's going to tell us all about dish soap.

-I totally agree.

Dishes are the bane of the cook.

But we tested all of the top dish soaps on the market to see if we could make the task easier.

And in our most recent testing, we noticed a new trend.

Have you seen foaming dish soaps in your supermarket?

-They're kind of everywhere now.

-Mm-hmm.

This is a big trend over the past few years, and you use them a little differently.

So we're going to do a little demo right here.

-Okay.

-Okay.

So over here we have just an ordinary dirty plate.

Will you put that in there?

We made it nice and dirty.

-Yeah, you sure did.

-Yep.

You put that in there and soak it as you typically would with liquid dish soap.

-Okay.

-Right.

You could put it on the sponge.

You can also put it in the water.

-Right.

-The foaming products, actually, you use them totally different.

You spray them directly on an extreme mess, which I have right here in front of us.

This is a baked-on lasagna pan.

And these are designed to tackle this sort of thing -- really tough messes.

-Yes.

-You don't put it on your sponge.

You don't put it in the water.

You put it right on the pan.

Exactly.

-Alright.

Just right over the food.

The baked-on food.

That was probably at least one portion of food there.

-Yes.

Some lasagna got really baked on in here.

And we're going to let this sit for a minute while we talk about the rest of the lineup.

Let that work a little bit and we'll come back to it.

-Sounds good.

-So over here we tested a whole bunch of different options.

Some are petroleum derived, some are naturally derived.

We found it didn't really matter.

There was great performance in both categories.

-Oh, okay.

-And the foams, I think our overall opinion there was sometimes it felt like bringing a gun to a knife fight.

Like, this is a heavy duty, caustic cleaner.

You don't always need that.

But if you want a really tough cleaner in your arsenal to muscle through occasional really, really burnt-on messes, this is pretty good.

And we do recommend the Dawn Platinum Powerwash.

-Okay.

-You just want to be careful with your hands.

You know, these are caustic things.

So it's -- Treat it like the true chemical cleaner that it is.

-Alright.

-Let's check in on our dirty dishes over here.

-All right.

-Our little demo.

Let's start over here with the classic liquid dish soap.

Would you mind taking that out for me and, you know, giving it a swipe, seeing how easy it is to clean right off the bat?

But this is our winner, actually, in this bin right here.

It just did a great job.

It's from method.

Look at you.

-That's pretty darn good.

-Pretty darn good.

-This was stuck on.

Alright, let's see what we have here.

Look at that.

Look at that.

That doesn't take much to start -- -You can see instant progre-- Like, look at that.

The super dark baked-on bits.

Boom.

We're seeing the white.

Obviously, there's more work to do here.

But you can tell that that thing powered through the toughest dried-on bits.

You don't always need that much power.

If you want something in your arsenal that's like when you really want to tackle things and level up, sure, get a foaming spray.

But most of the time, liquid dish soap is fine.

-I've learned so much about liquid dish soap.

Thank you, Hannah.

-Welcome.

-Well, if you want to pick up one of the winners, the best all-around liquid dish soap is by method.

But for tougher jobs, check out a foaming dish soap like Dawn Platinum Powerwash.

It's going to get the dirtiest dishes clean.

♪♪ -Today we're going to talk about evaporative cooling, but we're going to start with this sparkly yellow stuff.

This is a heat-sensitive material that is yellow when it's hot, but as soon as the temperature drops, it turns magenta.

I'm going to put little drops of water on the surface.

And I'm going to pop the lid on and kick on this fan.

And our big reveal is... nothing happens.

But look what changes when I take off the lid.

Check out that color change.

Now notice how the putty only changes color where it's wet.

This is evaporative cooling.

When water evaporates, it pulls heat from the surface.

You've experienced this on a hot summer day.

When sweat evaporates, it cools you down.

So what does this have to do with cooking?

It turns out quite a lot.

When you bring water to a boil, steam starts to rise from the pot well before it comes to a boil.

That steam is molecules of water leaving the pot.

As they leave, they take heat with them and make it take a little bit longer to reach a boil.

Popping on a lid can shorten the time to a boil by more than 20%.

But there's more than that.

We tent steaks and roasts to eliminate evaporation to keep them warm while they rest.

Barbecuers often wrap brisket to help it cook more evenly.

And when we braise in the oven, we cover the pot when we want to cook hotter and faster.

So now that you know about evaporative cooling, you can use it to dial in all of your cooking.

No sweat.

Actually, I guess it's kind of all about sweat.

♪♪ -Bread pudding, bruschetta, and, of course, French toast are all recipes that were originally designed to use leftover bread.

But now Dan's got a recipe from the Middle East that he's going to tell us all about.

-We're making a really special dish today.

It is called Fattet hummus.

-Mm-hmm.

-Uh, and it is absolutely a way to use up leftover pita and leftover bread.

It comes from the Levant.

So we're talking about Palestine, Lebanon, Syria.

And bread has always been really important to that part of the world.

You don't want to waste anything.

So it's a way to use it and make a really beautiful new dish.

But just like so many of the dishes you mentioned, it went from a way to use something up to celebrate it in its own right.

-Right.

-So I'm super excited to show this one to you.

So we have 3 8-inch pitas here, and I'm going to tear them really roughly into 1-inch pieces.

-Okay.

-We're gonna do a roasting technique on this one.

Okay, perfect.

Now we've got about 5 cups' worth of torn pita bread.

If your pitas are different sizes, just go by that 5 cups that you want.

-Okay.

-So we're going to use 1/4 cup of olive oil here.

You need a fair amount of oil for this.

We're not frying, but you do need it to absorb into the bread, give it that crispiness, and it also will last a little bit longer when we add some of the wetter ingredients.

-Got it.

A little waterproofing going on.

-I just have 1/2 a teaspoon of salt.

-Okay.

Just regular table salt.

-Yep.

Give this a good stir.

Make sure it's well coated.

Okay, great.

And now we'll just spread it out over our baking sheet here.

I have a wire rack in here.

-That's a little unusual for this step.

-Yeah.

You know, what it really does is, uh, allows air circulation all around.

So we're going to use a lot on this sheet here.

And you can see if they're overlapping too much, there's just not enough air to get them nice and crispy.

-Gotcha.

-Okay.

I'm gonna pop these in a 375-degree oven.

We're gonna go for about 15 to 18 minutes, rotating halfway through.

And we want really beautiful, nice drying and crisping all over.

-Okay.

-Okay, so while that toasts, we're going to work on some other components of the dish.

-Alright.

-So I have some lemon juice here in these bowls.

I've got 1/4 cup over here and I've got 2 tablespoons over here.

We're going to use lemon juice to control the flavor of garlic a little bit.

So I have 4 garlic cloves and I'm just going to put them through my garlic press.

It's actually a really great way to deal with garlic.

It destroys so many cells.

It creates tons and tons of flavor.

-Right.

-You got to use it right away because you're destroying so many cells.

It'll keep getting more and more pungent.

-Right.

-So I'm going to add 2 teaspoons to each bowl here.

Now what the lemon juice does is when you cut garlic, you know, you set off this chain reaction, right?

And you start to create garlic flavor, a compound called allicin.

And that is actually pretty dependent upon pH.

And acidic environments can actually slow it down and really minimize that allicin production.

-Takes down the pungency a little bit.

-Okay, so I'm just going to stir that in.

I'm going to let that sit for about 10 minutes.

We're gonna get good garlic flavor, but nice and tame.

♪♪ Bridget, Fattet hummus is one of those dishes that spans such a large geographic region.

And it's kind of different in every home.

-Right.

-There's a ton of variation across the board when you look at this dish.

-I love food like that.

-So we're gonna make the sauce here and we're adding some fresh mint into it.

We're taking, you know, our own sort of spin on a couple elements of this sauce.

I just have my leaves.

I like to stack them up, use a really sharp knife, and I like to slice through so I'm damaging less, as opposed to boom, boom, boom, chopping up and down.

-Right.

-It's the same way I do with chives.

Okay, so I'm going to take 2 tablespoons of our beautiful mint and add that to our bowl.

This is the 1/4 cup of lemon juice with the garlic.

Okay, great.

So to our lemon juice mixture here with our mint in there... -Right.

-...I'm going to add 2/3 of a cup of whole fat plain yogurt.

And then it's traditionally paired with tahini.

So we're going to add 1/3 of a cup of tahini.

-Mm-hmm.

-This is going to ground it, make it super nutty and lovely.

-Toasted sesame flavor for days.

-And 1 tablespoon of pomegranate molasses.

So we're going to use pomegranates on top.

And we're just pairing that with a little bit in here.

Yeah, again, this sauce can vary a lot.

You see sumac used a lot of times.

-Ooh.

-Lemon, obviously, we have in here, is very, very popular.

But you want some brightness to it.

Um, and the pomegranate molasses is really nice in there.

Okay.

And then finally I have 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

-Great.

-Okay, great.

So we'll stir this together.

So we're going to move on to the topping here.

And we're going to use chickpeas for this.

So I have 2 cans of chickpeas.

You can start from dried and make it.

But you also see a lot of recipes with canned.

Just speeds things up a lot.

So I have 2 cans of chickpeas here.

I'm gonna add them to my pot.

When this dish is good, it is all about contrast.

-Yes.

-And so what we want is textural contrast, but also temperature contrast.

So this should be really, really warm.

We have our cooling yogurt sauce, and then we have everything else going on.

So I'm just going to bring this up to a simmer over medium heat.

♪♪ Okay.

These have been simmering for about five minutes.

They're nice and warm through.

They even get a little more tender during that process, which is lovely.

-Nice.

-Now it is time to drain them.

-Okay.

-Okay.

So I'm just going to drain these.

Give them a good shake.

-Nice.

-And we'll add them to our bowl right here with our lemon juice and garlic.

-Got it.

-So I'm going to season these up.

I have 1 1/2 teaspoons of ground cumin and 1/4 teaspoon of salt.

So just stir these in.

Get that lemon juice from the top and bottom there.

Okay, great.

It is time for assembly.

Now we have our beautiful toasted pita.

So this is our base layer.

So we're going to start with these on the bottom.

-Base camp.

-Base camp.

You can hear how crunchy they are.

-Yes.

-Okay, great.

So we have our base layer.

Now it is time for our beautiful chickpeas.

-Oh, and like you said, they're still warm, nice and hot.

So it's juxtaposed between the heat and the cold.

-Exactly.

You know, if you're in Damascus or Beirut, this is often a breakfast or a brunch dish.

And so that warming effect that you get, you know, there's lots of contrast in there, but you need something a little hearty and warming.

It's perfect for that time of day.

Okay, so now our yogurt sauce goes over top, and it is a nice heavy layer.

It gets sort of lavished over the top, which just feels like indulgent and rich.

I really love it as, like, the second life for leftover bread being treated -- being treated so well.

So we're using pomegranate seeds, obviously, on it.

We love it for that color and texture.

-Beautiful.

And you said that was about 1/4 cup.

-That's 1/4 cup.

Yep.

-Okay.

-And then we have some pine nuts here.

Now sometimes you'll see this really sizzled in oil and then poured over the top, which is really lovely, too.

We're using some heavily toasted pine nuts, and then I'm gonna drizzle with a little oil.

-Okay.

-To get that effect.

I'm going to use a little bit of parsley on here, too.

Just a little punch of green.

And then, again, I'm just going to drizzle some beautiful extra virgin olive oil over the top.

-Dan.

-It's going to get us our gorgeous glisten and tons more flavor.

Ooh, doesn't that look good?

Oh, that looks so good.

-That looks beautiful.

[ Gasps ] -Mm.

Look at that.

Alright, let's dig in and try this.

-Alright.

Definitely want to get -- Make sure I get chickpeas, of course.

-Mm.

-Mmm.

Pow!

-That's so good.

-Big flavor.

-Mm-hmm.

-The lemon and garlic.

The toastiness of the tahini.

Mmm.

-You get a little bit of that sweetness from the pomegranate molasses.

I also like that there's -- there's garlic flavor that's, like, underneath everything.

But it's really moderated by that lemon juice, which I love.

-Definitely.

-Mm.

-The chickpeas are so nice and tender.

They're not overdone, though, but they're really well-seasoned themselves.

-You can totally understand how this started as a way to preserve a precious product that was going to go bad into something else, but how it's become a celebrated dish now, and it's really celebratory to serve.

-No, this was a masterpiece.

Every single component was respected and dressed beautifully and then brought together in this -- this art.

Thanks, Dan.

-You're welcome.

-Really appreciate it.

If you'd like to try this dish at home, it starts with stirring yogurt, tahini, mint, and pomegranate molasses into lemon and garlic.

Simmer chickpeas and dress with more lemon and garlic.

Spoon chickpeas and then yogurt sauce over baked, crispy pita chips.

And, of course, garnish with parsley, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts, and a drizzle of olive oil.

So from "America's Test Kitchen," a very bright Fattet hummus.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes, and you'll find them all on our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.

Alright.

Eggplant you say?

-Eggplant is really nice on it.

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